We had a few days to spare so decided to do some more temples, for the sake of the parents. The two important site with very impressive temples at Mathura and Vandraven despite the heat were worth a visit.
The Tajmahal at Agra is not what it use to be. The marble is getting a little yellow and is less impressive now than what it was before. Going on a Sunday was also not a good idea due to the very large crowds on the day.
India is fine if one is going on a week or two week holidays and staying in posh hotels, but going on a long tour like the one we did was hard and at times a little tiring.
India for now is done and has been a very worth while trip despite everything.
Our driver during the 1500 miles of travelling was a miserable old chap by the name of Mohiner Singh. He did not communicate very well or tell us much about anything, however he was a good driver and considering the conditions , he got us everywhere safely.
Some interesting road signs on our journey:
1. You sleep child weeps.
2. She will wait if you are late.
3. Life is a journey complete it.
4. Don't nag him let him drive.
5. All will wait.
6. Licence to drive not fly.
7. After whisky drive risky.
8. Peep peep don't sleep.
9.This is a high way not a runway.
Singapore will be, on the other hand , totally different. No car horns, no dusty roads and no noise.
Wednesday, 30 September 2009
Tuesday, 29 September 2009
CHAR DHAM YATRA
The four very important Hindu religious sites are located very high up in the mountain ranges in the north of India. To make a pilgrimage to these four sites is known as The Char Dham Yatra, to which all practising or non practising Hindus aspire, to make the pilgrimage once in their life time.Hundreds of thousand make the trip between April and October when the mountain passes are accessible.The final ascend to the site is either by foot, or on a horse back or one can be carried on what is called a "dolly". This is basically a chair attached to two posts and is carried up the mountain by four young fit lads.
Two days before we started the journey from Rishikesh, there had been heavy rains which had caused landslides and in some places and roads had been totally washed away. Taking a chance we made the start hoping the roads would be cleared in time. With the parents in their 80` this was not going to be an easy journey. Fortunately the car we chose was a very good Toyota Innova 2.5lt.
FIRST DHAM: YAMNOTRI 14TH &15TH SEPT.
The hotel was very basic, hot water had to be bought by the bucket at 15Rupees a time. We had to insist that the hotel staff change the bed sheets in our presence, or Madam was not going to sleep in the bed. Our own duvet covers and pillow cases that we took with us was the best decision we made and came in handy at a quite a few places.
Next morning at 6.00AM ,by Jeep, we made it to the place form where we could make the final climb of 6km to the site. As soon as we got here we were mobbed by people wanting to take us up on horses or on dolly. The parents went up by dolly and we made the 6km hike in the cold weather, suitably wrapped in warm clothing. The scenery on the way up is magnificent. Rolling mountains, high water falls and deep gorges. Climbing on foot is hard work. As soon as the sun starts to come up the mountains it starts getting warmer and the layers of cloths start coming off.Out comes the sun glasses and the hat. It took us 4 hours to climb the 6km at reached the destination at 11.00am. The mountain path is cemented and stoned so it is hard on the knees. In the peak season it can be scary as the path is very congested with horses, dolly's and people on foot. There is now a safety railing installed so it is less dangerous and not many people end up in the gorges.
Once you get up the summit and the temple there is the usual throng of priests but this time we were a little wiser. Getting close the source of the Yamanotri and taking a dip in the very cold water was the aim of this particular trip. The dip cleansed what ever few sins I had left. Getting up this far was a great feeling and a release of tension and worry that had built up the past few days.
Coming down was much relaxing. Plenty of tea stalls to stop and relax and admire the beauty of the hills.
ba in a basket , a one man dolly
at the source of Yamnotri
at the source , the water is fast flowing
mother getting drenched, she loves it
along the path
along the path
admiring the view
waking up not that easy
dad in a dolly
The second site was another long and slow drive up a different range of mountains with the road conditions not getting any better. After 8 hours drive , arrived at a place called Harsil, 20km from the final destination. The hotel was again very basic but with very helpfull staff. The following morning the drive to Gangotri was easy but the place itself was disappointing. However the walk along the river and the trek up the hills to the caves was OK.
still Gangotri
view of the river
close to the source
River was fast at this point
View of Gangotri
Hotel in Harsil
THE FOURTH DHAM BADRINATH 20TH & 21ST
A very impressive temple once we got there by some night driving, which in India, for tourist like us not advisable. This was due to road closures and therefore unavoidable. The place is also high up in the mountain and therefore very cold in the evenings and early morning. Luckily for us the hotel was newish and therefore a little better than others we had stayed.
Badrinath temple
view from the top
somewhere along the way
back form Kadernath
horse needed a drink
Two days before we started the journey from Rishikesh, there had been heavy rains which had caused landslides and in some places and roads had been totally washed away. Taking a chance we made the start hoping the roads would be cleared in time. With the parents in their 80` this was not going to be an easy journey. Fortunately the car we chose was a very good Toyota Innova 2.5lt.
FIRST DHAM: YAMNOTRI 14TH &15TH SEPT.
220km from Rishikesh ,driving through out the day , always going up the mountains,with roads barely passable and in some case very large and deep pot holes we were making good progress. The drive was fantastic with amazing scenery, water falls, high mountains and deep gorges that you dare not look out of the window. The roads were so narrow that it was frightening. We chose a small hotel 11km from our destination as the roads further up were not suitable for the car.
The hotel was very basic, hot water had to be bought by the bucket at 15Rupees a time. We had to insist that the hotel staff change the bed sheets in our presence, or Madam was not going to sleep in the bed. Our own duvet covers and pillow cases that we took with us was the best decision we made and came in handy at a quite a few places.
Next morning at 6.00AM ,by Jeep, we made it to the place form where we could make the final climb of 6km to the site. As soon as we got here we were mobbed by people wanting to take us up on horses or on dolly. The parents went up by dolly and we made the 6km hike in the cold weather, suitably wrapped in warm clothing. The scenery on the way up is magnificent. Rolling mountains, high water falls and deep gorges. Climbing on foot is hard work. As soon as the sun starts to come up the mountains it starts getting warmer and the layers of cloths start coming off.Out comes the sun glasses and the hat. It took us 4 hours to climb the 6km at reached the destination at 11.00am. The mountain path is cemented and stoned so it is hard on the knees. In the peak season it can be scary as the path is very congested with horses, dolly's and people on foot. There is now a safety railing installed so it is less dangerous and not many people end up in the gorges.
Once you get up the summit and the temple there is the usual throng of priests but this time we were a little wiser. Getting close the source of the Yamanotri and taking a dip in the very cold water was the aim of this particular trip. The dip cleansed what ever few sins I had left. Getting up this far was a great feeling and a release of tension and worry that had built up the past few days.
Coming down was much relaxing. Plenty of tea stalls to stop and relax and admire the beauty of the hills.
ba in a basket , a one man dolly
at the source of Yamnotri 
at the source , the water is fast flowing 
mother getting drenched, she loves it
along the path
along the path 
admiring the view
waking up not that easy
dad in a dolly 2ND DHAM GANGOTRI 16TH & 17TH SEPTEMBER
The second site was another long and slow drive up a different range of mountains with the road conditions not getting any better. After 8 hours drive , arrived at a place called Harsil, 20km from the final destination. The hotel was again very basic but with very helpfull staff. The following morning the drive to Gangotri was easy but the place itself was disappointing. However the walk along the river and the trek up the hills to the caves was OK.
It is amazing that thousands make the long and tiring journey only to spend a few hours at the final destination. This is all due to a religiously significant event that took place thousands of years ago.
still Gangotri
view of the river
close to the source
River was fast at this point
View of Gangotri
Hotel in HarsilA very impressive temple once we got there by some night driving, which in India, for tourist like us not advisable. This was due to road closures and therefore unavoidable. The place is also high up in the mountain and therefore very cold in the evenings and early morning. Luckily for us the hotel was newish and therefore a little better than others we had stayed.
a view in Badrinath
After a visit to the temple
He likes having his photo taken
Badrinath temple KADERNATH 18TH &19TH SEPTEMBER
The third site on the tour through a different mountain range, but much more difficult drive, partly as a result of road closures, more land slides and a final destination 14km. up the mountain which we decided to do on a horse back. Not an easy thing to do. The backside got sore, the back hurt and the knees were battered. I think the horse was a bit small for me. Coming down however we decided to walk as on a horse back it was becoming more difficult.
The parents got to the temple site on a dolly, which was also very uncomfortable. Three done and one more to go.
looking good on the horses
looking good on the horsesR
Rekha was more at ease on the horse
Rekha was more at ease on the horse view from the top
somewhere along the way
back form Kadernath
horse needed a drinkFriday, 25 September 2009
RISHIKESH 12th & 13th
Rishikesh is 25 Km. from Haridwar on the banks of River Ganges.The hotel right on the banks of the rivers was superb. One could sit on the balcony and simply watch the river flow and all the other activities that goes on in the river. Lots of Europeans here, for tracking, meditating, yoga practises or just smoking pot. Lots of yoga schools here. Apparently the place is referred to as the Yoga capital of the world. Lots of temples and ashrams here in Rishikesh. They provide cheap and clean accommodation. Taking part in Parmard ashram was an aspiring experience. Very quite, very charged but relaxed atmosphere. Very different to Haridwar.
River rafting is also very popular and fun. The river here is fast and ferocious specially after the rains. 9 Km. of rafting coming down from the mountains with lots of rapids and fast flow is good fun.
Neelkanth temple about 35Km. further up the mountain is OK for the drive and the scenery but not worth if you are pressed for time.
Rafting on the Ganges
floating in the Ganges whilst rafting
fun on the Ganges
river is fast and ferocious.
Temple in Rishikesh
Aarti in Rishikesh
Lord Shiva on the Ganges by night
Lord Shiva on the Ganges
Another feet wash in the Ganges
River rafting is also very popular and fun. The river here is fast and ferocious specially after the rains. 9 Km. of rafting coming down from the mountains with lots of rapids and fast flow is good fun.
Neelkanth temple about 35Km. further up the mountain is OK for the drive and the scenery but not worth if you are pressed for time.
Rafting on the Ganges
floating in the Ganges whilst rafting
fun on the Ganges
river is fast and ferocious.
Temple in Rishikesh
Aarti in Rishikesh 
Lord Shiva on the Ganges by night
Lord Shiva on the Ganges
Another feet wash in the GangesWAGH BORDER & HARRIDWAR
HARIDWAR 10TH AND 11TH SEPTEMBER
Got out of bed this morning and stepped into 2 inches of water in the room. Some how the water from the next room, where the outside door was not properly shut and the blocked drainage, the heavy overnight rain flooded the room. Not a good start to the day.
Leaving Delhi , with rain falling was a real problem, traffic chaos everywhere. Here they do not believe in traffic lanes. One simply drives through any little space you can squeeze through, no matter which side of the road.
The journey to Haridwar with persistent rain was a big problem. Progress outside the big cities seems to be non existent.Every road side towns and villages are a mess. Big potholes in the middle of the roads in the towns, rubbish everywhere,cars, rickshaws, lorries, cows , dogs jostling for space on the roads. Change it seems is very unlikely to reach to such places.
Arrived in Haridwar and checked into Ginger Hotel. Few weeks ago I read an article in the FT about hotels in India. They are either super luxurious and opulent and one stays there to impress or at the other end the hotels are non decrypt where the plumbing works intermittently. Tata group are rolling out high tec modern hotels which are bright , spacious and modern furniture. They are maintained to high standard and exceptionally clean. Highly recommended and value for money.
First outing in Haridwar has to be the banks of the River Ganges. As soon as you get there a throng of priests surround you . They all claim to be the priests of your ancestors and insist that you perform a pooja to purify your body and wash away your past sins. Even without agreeing to anything or even realising it, we were performing the pooja with two priests, his son and his daughter. The 5 minute ritual ended up costing me a fair bit, by Indian standard. I suppose price worth paying for cleansing my mind and body of sins. If it took the priest 5 minutes I could`nt have accumulated that many sins. I have always. been a good boy.
Washing hands and feet in the Ganges 
By the Ganges
A mode of transport
a Cow in Haridwar
a thirsty monkey
Parents in HaridwarHaridwar means house of god
Happy mum
seems happy enough
View from Cable Car(not clear)
Aarti In Haridwar
Haridwar
Evening gathering in Haridwar
Hari Ki Podi in the eveningWAGH BORDER 9TH SEPTEMBER
In conversation with strangers at the border
Border guard
More border guards. Have to be 6ft tall
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