Following the Footsteps: CHAR DHAM YATRA

The four very important Hindu religious sites are located very high up in the mountain ranges in the north of India. To make a pilgrimage to these four sites is known as The Char Dham Yatra, to which all practising or non practising Hindus aspire, to make the pilgrimage once in their life time.Hundreds of thousand make the trip between April and October when the mountain passes are accessible.The final ascend to the site is either by foot, or on a horse back or one can be carried on what is called a "dolly". This is basically a chair attached to two posts and is carried up the mountain by four young fit lads.
Two days before we started the journey from Rishikesh, there had been heavy rains which had caused landslides and in some places and roads had been totally washed away. Taking a chance we made the start hoping the roads would be cleared in time. With the parents in their 80` this was not going to be an easy journey. Fortunately the car we chose was a very good Toyota Innova 2.5lt.

FIRST DHAM: YAMNOTRI 14TH &15TH SEPT.

220km from Rishikesh ,driving through out the day , always going up the mountains,with roads barely passable and in some case very large and deep pot holes we were making good progress. The drive was fantastic with amazing scenery, water falls, high mountains and deep gorges that you dare not look out of the window. The roads were so narrow that it was frightening. We chose a small hotel 11km from our destination as the roads further up were not suitable for the car.
The hotel was very basic, hot water had to be bought by the bucket at 15Rupees a time. We had to insist that the hotel staff change the bed sheets in our presence, or Madam was not going to sleep in the bed. Our own duvet covers and pillow cases that we took with us was the best decision we made and came in handy at a quite a few places.
Next morning at 6.00AM ,by Jeep, we made it to the place form where we could make the final climb of 6km to the site. As soon as we got here we were mobbed by people wanting to take us up on horses or on dolly. The parents went up by dolly and we made the 6km hike in the cold weather, suitably wrapped in warm clothing. The scenery on the way up is magnificent. Rolling mountains, high water falls and deep gorges. Climbing on foot is hard work. As soon as the sun starts to come up the mountains it starts getting warmer and the layers of cloths start coming off.Out comes the sun glasses and the hat. It took us 4 hours to climb the 6km at reached the destination at 11.00am. The mountain path is cemented and stoned so it is hard on the knees. In the peak season it can be scary as the path is very congested with horses, dolly's and people on foot. There is now a safety railing installed so it is less dangerous and not many people end up in the gorges.

Once you get up the summit and the temple there is the usual throng of priests but this time we were a little wiser. Getting close the source of the Yamanotri and taking a dip in the very cold water was the aim of this particular trip. The dip cleansed what ever few sins I had left. Getting up this far was a great feeling and a release of tension and worry that had built up the past few days.

Coming down was much relaxing. Plenty of tea stalls to stop and relax and admire the beauty of the hills.

ba in a basket , a one man dolly

at the source of Yamnotri

at the source , the water is fast flowing

mother getting drenched, she loves it

along the path

admiring the view

waking up not that easy

dad in a dolly

2ND DHAM GANGOTRI 16TH & 17TH SEPTEMBER

The second site was another long and slow drive up a different range of mountains with the road conditions not getting any better. After 8 hours drive , arrived at a place called Harsil, 20km from the final destination. The hotel was again very basic but with very helpfull staff. The following morning the drive to Gangotri was easy but the place itself was disappointing. However the walk along the river and the trek up the hills to the caves was OK.

It is amazing that thousands make the long and tiring journey only to spend a few hours at the final destination. This is all due to a religiously significant event that took place thousands of years ago.

still Gangotri

view of the river

close to the source

River was fast at this point

View of Gangotri

Hotel in Harsil

THE FOURTH DHAM BADRINATH 20TH & 21ST
A very impressive temple once we got there by some night driving, which in India, for tourist like us not advisable. This was due to road closures and therefore unavoidable. The place is also high up in the mountain and therefore very cold in the evenings and early morning. Luckily for us the hotel was newish and therefore a little better than others we had stayed.

a view in Badrinath

After a visit to the temple

He likes having his photo taken

Badrinath temple

KADERNATH 18TH &19TH SEPTEMBER

The third site on the tour through a different mountain range, but much more difficult drive, partly as a result of road closures, more land slides and a final destination 14km. up the mountain which we decided to do on a horse back. Not an easy thing to do. The backside got sore, the back hurt and the knees were battered. I think the horse was a bit small for me. Coming down however we decided to walk as on a horse back it was becoming more difficult.

The parents got to the temple site on a dolly, which was also very uncomfortable. Three done and one more to go.